Mouse Trap Project
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This humane mouse trap has no moving parts, does not need to be set, can be made in 10 minutes or less, using inexpensive and readily available materials that you probably already have, and best of all-
IT WON’T HURT THE MOUSE
The story behind this trap
The reason this website is here is quite simple. At work one day, I saw a mouse caught in a sticky trap. What’s worse, my co-workers were laughing and poking at him with a pencil (bunch of ignorant rednecks). It was after this that the “seed” was planted. I decided to come up with an easy to build trap that would not hurt mice.
After drawing up and kicking around some pretty lame ideas, I finally gave up. It wasn’t until about a year later that the idea for this trap came to me. I saw an empty 2 liter bottle and it just hit me. I have dedicated this web site to this trap, and will update it as I improve on the design.
A word of caution- Mice, though cute and harmless looking, can carry harmful diseases. Be sure you take this into account when handling them or this trap
Building the mouse trap
Download and print the instructions here (Requires Adobe Reader)
- Tools and Materials
Here is a list of things you will need in order to complete the project. You most likely have the majority of these items already, and what you do not have can often times be substituted with something similar to it.
Tools
A Pair Of Wire Cutters Or Dikes
Screwdriver (Phillips Head)
Pocket Knife Or Utility Knife
Drill And 5/32? Bit Or An Ice Pick
Permanent Marker
Rubber Band
3 Clothes-Pins
A Pair Of Scissors
Measuring Tape Or Ruler
Materials
A 2 liter cola bottle
About 12? Of Small Gauge Wire (Solid, Not Stranded)
(2) 8? x 3? Coarse Threaded Drywall Screws 8? x 8? x 3/4? Piece Of Wood
The directions
Step 1 Remove the cap and cut the plastic ring from the bottle using wire cutters or dikes
Step 2 Measure 8 inches from the bottom of the bottle with a measuring tape or ruler and mark the spot with a permanent marker- Do this all around the bottle (4 or 5 marks)
Step 3 Now put a rubber band around the bottle and line it up with the marks you just made
Step 4 Use the rubber band as a straight-edge and draw a circle all the way around the bottle
Step 5 Use a pocket or utility knife to puncture the bottle on the line you just drew
Step 6 Take your scissors and finish cutting along the line completely around the bottle
Step 7 With your drill and small bit, make 2 rows of holes near the base of the bottle (about 20 holes altogether)
Step 8 Drill 3 holes about 1/2 inches from the top of the bottle. The holes should be at least as equally spaced from each other as you can get them without having to measure (just eyeball it)
Step 9 Use 3 clothes-pins to hold the top of the bowl flush with the top of the container
Step 10 Use a permanent marker and trace through the holes to mark their positions on the bowl
Step 11 Using a drill or an ice-pick, make holes in the bowl where your marks are
Step 12 After suspending the bowl in the container with the holes lined up, use the (3) 4 inch pieces of small gauge wire to hold the bowl in place. Keep the wire tied in such a way that most of it is outside of the bowl.
Step 13 Now We Can Start On The Base. The base should be made from an 8 inch x 8 inch piece of at least 3/4 inch plywood, particle board, or whatever is available. It does not have to be exactly 8 x 8, just close. So if you find a piece that is, say, 6 x 6, use it. It should be at least 3/4 inch, however, for weight and so that the screws that will secure the trap to it will be able to “bite” into the wood without going all of the way through it. Measure to and mark the center of the base using a measuring tape or ruler and permanent marker
Step 14 Place the bottle on the mark in the center of the base
Step 15 With the drywall screws at an angle, screw the trap to the base on either side- the screws are sharp enough to make the holes in the bottle bottle by hand, then you simply use a screwdriver to screw it into the base.You may have to take the bowl off and use your hand to hold the trap down while you screw the trap to the base- make sure the trap sits flush onto the base. The screws will stick out- this makes them easier to remove when you go to clean the trap, and ensures that you do not over-tighten them and go completely through the plastic.Now, put the bowl back on and you are finished!
How To Use The Mouse Trap
This trap design is different than most in that the mouse enters from the top of the trap. Most designs have the entrance close to the ground. A question I get a lot with this design is “How does the mouse get in there? It is 8? tall!” The answer is this- Mice are avid jumpers. The average house mouse can (and will) jump at least 12? high, and up to 17? high.
If you set the trap out and you know the mouse has been near the trap but cannot seem to find his way in, you may have a handicapped or especially lazy mouse. No big deal, just place something right next to the trap to give the rodent a little help. The “step stool” could be books, a small box, whatever. So far, I have not seen the need for this little addition. But I figured this was a possible scenario that I should cover.
The trap should be checked often, as a zealous mouse will chew its way out if given enough time to do so. You may have a separate container ready, something sturdy you can transfer the rodents to until you find a place for them (which should be straight away, as wild mice in captivity will die within a few short hours). To get the mouse out of the trap, you simply untwist the wire and remove the “bowl” on top.
NON-STICK COOKING SPRAY -
This is a very important part of what makes this trap work so well. A couple of squirts of non-stick cooking spray in the bowl will make the bowl and spout slippery, making it easy for the rodents to get in, but more importantly keeping them from being able to get back out through the spout.
It is best to smear the spray all around the bowl and the spout. Then wipe off the excess- it’s kind of like “buff waxing” the bowl and spout.
BAITING THE MOUSE TRAP -
You can experiment with whatever bait you so desire. I recommend using a whole grain cereal like corn Chex or Cheerios, coupled with a cracker smeared with peanut butter.
Pour the cereal into the trap (do not fill past the first row of holes in the base). I figure when a mouse sees all of that cereal through the clear plastic, he supposes he hit the jackpot. The peanut butter helps attract the mouse because peanut butter has a smell that carries farther than the cereal.
The cereal is for the up close visual attraction, while the peanut better gets the mouse to the trap because of it’s stronger smell.
TRAP PLACEMENT -
It is best to put the trap along a wall, somewhere in the rodents path. Mice tend to stick close to the wall since they cannot see too well. They rarely go into the open unless they are dashing across the floor, and they are not likely to stop to eat if they are dashing.
If you need to put the trap in-between 2 objects such as a washer and dryer or between the counter and refrigerator, simply remove the base and squeeze the trap into the space. As long as the trap does not tip over, it will work fine.
Mice will generally stay within a 30? area, and will very rarely travel out of that area. So place your trap in the area you have seen the mouse or signs of a mouse (droppings, torn bags of food, etc).
Feedback -
Let me know what works for you- baiting combinations, trap placement, etc. I will use your experiences to keep my E-book updated and make any improvements needed to the design. Also, send me your pictures, please! Pictures of your trap, and what you caught with it.
You can leave your comments, testimonials or feedback here
If you have a mouse story you want posted on this site please click here
