Humane Mouse Repellent

mice Humane Mouse Repellent

It is easy to pick up the phone and call an exterminator at the first sign of a mouse problem. But you can rid yourself of mice with a little patience and effort, and do so without being nasty about it. Live trapping and removal has many advantages versus the alternatives anyway.

Let’s compare-

Mouse poisons are dangerous.

Children or pets could ingest the poison. Poisons also take time to work, and there is a risk that the mice may die while they’re within your walls. When the body (or bodies) begin to decay it will smell very bad and there is no way to remove the smell without tearing into your walls.

Snap traps can potentially harm pets or children.

They are hard to set, especially if you have a serious mouse problem and need more than a couple of them. They only work on one mouse at a time, and removal is a nasty experience.

Glue traps are nasty.

They can potentially make a mess of or suffocate your pets or children, and removal is a nasty experience. The cat in this picture is the unfortunate victim of a glue trap, and barely survived the experience with his life.

Now lets compare these to live mice traps-

Live traps.

Live traps do not endanger your pets or children, they do not make your house stink, they can catch multiple rodents at a time, they are not sticky or messy, and removal of mice is not a nasty experience.

So why are the nasty traps more widely accepted?

Nasty traps are normally the least expensive, the most convenient (they are widely available), and they give the trapper a since of revenge. I say “revenge” because most people take it personally when mice move into their home. But in reality, mice do not move in unless they are invited. So make sure you are not inviting them, and you will most likely never have a rodent problem to begin with.

How to “un-invite” your unwanted guests-

Cover outdoor trash cans.

Tight lids on trash cans and frequent removal of garbage from the premises will help keep more mice from moving in on your property. Make sure you regularly take your garbage to the local facilities if you do not have city provided waste removal. If mice cannot find anything to eat around your home, they will likely search elsewhere.

Remove their housing.

Remove trash, old boards and junk cars. Mice like to hide in such places. Keep the grass cut, mice like tall grass because they can easily move about without being seen by predators. Don’t pile wood against the house. Store wood and other materials at least a foot off the ground.

No holes.

During the winter, warmth and food both become scarce outside. When these necessities become hard to find outside, mice search for the easiest place they can obtain them. If the easiest place is in your home, this is where they will go. But they have to be able to get into your home in the first place, so make sure there is no way into your home.

Cracks or spaces in your home are a potential entry for mice (a house mouse can get through a 1/4″ hole!). A thorough home inspection is a must. Check for any access mice may have into your home, both underneath and above. Even a tree branch leading to your roof can be an easy path inside through a hole in your attic vent. Make sure you fill any holes or cracks straight away, and cut any branches leading to your roof. Check around water and gas pipes as well as other utilities that lead into your house, as mice can easily make their way in if the holes are not properly filled in around these.

First off you need a Mouse Trap , you can build your own humane mouse trap by purchasing our eBook
The next step in mouse trapping is to remove any access to food inside your home other than the bait within your live traps. If you have exposed food sources that mice can easily get into (like cereal boxes, rice bags or anything else mice can chew through to access food), remove them completely. Put everything in some kind of hard container that is inaccessible to the rodents. This makes your live trap bait more desirable to the mice, since there is nothing else for them to eat.

Trap placement. The more traps, the better. Place traps in the areas where you have seen signs of the mice (tracks, feces, etc). Mice tend to stick close to walls, so put traps along the walls where they will most likely come across them.

Duration. The key to mice trapping is patience and determination- they have to eat sometime! If the mice have food stored up, they may not be interested in your traps until they have used up their reserves. Keep baiting your traps, and try different locations.

Releasing the captives-

Once captured, quick release is necessary as wild mice in captivity will die within a few hours. Take the mice at least one mile from your home. Mice are easy prey in the wild, so make sure you release them in an area where they can run for cover ( near rock or wood piles, for example). You may even leave them some food, after all they are in a new environment and will have to find new food sources.

Even if it seems as if you have captured them all, keep trapping for a few more days to make sure. Continue keeping your home and the surrounding area free from anything that may invite mice to move in, and you will most likely never have a rodent problem again.

If you would like, please send your mouse experiences to me and I will post them. You can send them to me from this page

If you would like to leave a comment, please do so here.

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